Soak the dried porcini in 300 ml freshly boiled water for 20 minutes, or as their packet directs. Meanwhile, peel the onion and carrot. Roughly chop half the onion and all the carrot. Put them in a saucepan with the washed parsley stalks, thyme and 1 litre tap water. Simmer for 25 minutes, then strain into a clean pan and keep the broth hot.

Lift the porcini from their soaking liquid, rinse away any grit if their packet directs, and chop. Pass the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or a sieve lined with clean kitchen paper, leaving the gritty residue behind. Add the strained liquid to the hot vegetable broth. Do not use unstrained sediment.

Finely chop the remaining onion and garlic. Wipe and slice the fresh mushrooms. Heat the olive oil in a wide pan and fry the fresh mushrooms for 6–8 minutes until browned. Add the porcini and garlic for 1 minute, then transfer to a bowl.

Melt 20 g of the butter in the same pan. Soften the chopped onion for 5 minutes. Add the dry arborio rice and stir for 2 minutes, then add the wine and stir until mostly absorbed. Add a ladle of hot broth and stir regularly over a gentle simmer.

Continue adding broth a ladle at a time as it is absorbed. After 12 minutes, return the mushrooms. Cook for about 18–22 minutes in total, or as the rice packet directs, until the grains are tender with a little bite and the risotto flows softly when stirred. You may not need all the broth; add hot water if you run short.

Remove from the heat. Stir in the remaining 20 g butter, the grated Parmesan, salt, pepper and chopped parsley leaves. Cover for 2 minutes, then loosen with a splash of hot broth if needed and serve immediately in four bowls.